Frequently Asked Questions

Have a question about your motorhome’s solar or electrical setup?

We’re happy to help. Whether it’s about solar panels, batteries, inverters, or anything else related to keeping your motorhome powered up, the team are available to give you clear, practical advice.

How Does It Work?

Have questions about your motorhome’s solar or electrical setup? Whether it’s about solar panels, batteries, inverters, or general off-grid advice, our team are available to help.

Submit your question, and you’ll receive clear, practical advice.

BATTERY MAINTENANCE TIPS: How do we look after our batteries when the van is sitting at home, not being used?

Great question! If your motorhome is parked up and you’ve got solar panels on the roof, that’s pretty much all you need. The solar will keep your batteries topped up during the day and let them rest at night, which is exactly what they like. You don’t need to leave any lights or appliances on—just let the solar do its job.

Now, if you’re plugging into mains power, things get a bit trickier. Not all chargers are created equal. Some chargers will keep pushing power into the batteries non-stop, and batteries don’t appreciate being charged 24/7. It can shorten their lifespan. That’s where something like a Victron charger comes in handy—they have a “storage mode” that charges the batteries, then gives them a rest, and kicks back in when needed. So, if you’re using mains power, make sure your charger can give the batteries a break.

Solar provides charge during the day and rests the batteries at night, which is beneficial since batteries shouldn’t be charged continuously.

For mains charging, ensure your charger can give the batteries a break; otherwise, prolonged charging may shorten battery life.

Victron chargers have a storage mode that monitors and charges intermittently, which is ideal.

BATTERY MAINTENANCE: Do I need to rest my charger when plugged into mains full-time?

If your motorhome is on mains hookup full-time, your charger may not have a built-in rest cycle. This can shorten battery life over time. If your charger doesn’t have a ‘storage mode,’ you’ve got two simple options—use a cheap 24-hour timer to turn it off overnight, or upgrade to a Victron charger that automatically manages resting periods.

BATTERY RECOVERY AND MAINTENANCE: What happens if lead-acid batteries go completely flat?

Lead-acid batteries really don’t like being discharged all the way down to zero. If they go dead flat—even just once—it can be tough to bring them back to full health. They might not hold a charge like they used to, and their overall lifespan can be shortened. If it happens multiple times, you might find they don’t recover at all. So it’s important to keep an eye on your battery levels and avoid letting them drop too low.

MULTIPLE CHARGING DEVICES: Are there any considerations for systems with multiple chargers?

Good question. If you’ve got multiple charging sources—like solar controllers, DC-DC chargers, mains chargers—they all work independently but aim for the same charge voltage. They each do their bit to get the batteries up to that target voltage.

There’s no harm in having multiple chargers; in fact, they can get your batteries charged up more quickly. If you want them to work in perfect harmony, you can use a battery shunt or smart monitoring system that tells all the devices the exact battery voltage, keeping everything synchronised.

DETERMINING SOLAR PANEL WATTAGE: How can I determine the wattage output of my roof solar panels?

The best way is to look for the data label that’s usually on the underside of each panel. Sometimes it’s hard to see, but you can use a small mirror and a torch to read it without removing the panel.

If that’s not possible, you can estimate based on the physical size of the panel. For example, older panels that are about 1.3 metres long and 0.5 metres wide might be around 120 watts, whereas modern panels of the same size could be up to 200 watts.

SOLAR PANEL MAINTENANCE AND LONGEVITY: Do solar panels have an end of life, and do they diminish over time?

Yes, solar panels do degrade gradually over time. Older panels might lose efficiency faster, but modern panels are designed to retain about 80–90% of their original output even after 20–25 years.

Quality matters here—investing in tier-one panels can ensure better performance and longevity compared to cheaper alternatives. So while panels don’t last forever, they do have a pretty long and productive life.

PORTABLE SOLAR PANELS: Are portable folding solar panels effective?

Yes, they can be a great addition, especially if you don’t have space on your roof for more panels.

Just be sure to choose quality panels—look for ones that are lightweight, durable, and efficient. Some of the newer composite panels are thin, waterproof, and easy to deploy. Brands like EcoFlow offer good options. They can help top up your batteries when you’re parked up and need a bit of extra juice.

SOLAR PANEL CONSIDERATIONS: Is it bad to cover the solar panels on a motorhome?

Covering your solar panels isn’t going to damage them, but it does mean they won’t generate any power. So if you’ve got a cover over your motorhome for an extended period, your batteries won’t be getting charged from the solar panels. That means you might need to plug into mains power to keep the batteries maintained. For short periods, a few days here and there, it’s not a big deal. Just be aware that with the cover on, the solar panels can’t do their job.

FRIDGE AND APPLIANCE MANAGEMENT: Should we leave a solar fridge freezer on when not using the motorhome?

There’s no need to keep your fridge running when you’re not using the motorhome. Turn it off, and it won’t affect the fridge or the batteries.

Just remember to leave the fridge door slightly open to allow air circulation and prevent any mould or mustiness. Most RV fridges have a little latch or setting that keeps the door ajar when they’re turned off.

DC VS AC POWER IN MOTORHOMES: Can an AC-controlled satellite dish be converted to DC?

In most cases, yes. Often, devices like satellite dish controllers come with a 230V AC to 12V DC transformer—that’s the little brick you plug into the wall.

If you check the specs and it says the output is 12V DC, you can usually wire it directly into your 12V system. Just be sure to verify the voltage requirements first.

If in doubt, consult with a professional or someone experienced with RV electrical systems.

CALCULATING SOLAR NEEDS: How do you calculate the amount of solar required for different times of year?

We use climatic data from NIWA, which provides detailed solar irradiance information for different parts of New Zealand throughout the year.

By knowing where and when you typically travel, we can calculate how much solar energy you’ll receive and size your solar array accordingly.

It’s not a one-size-fits-all answer—it depends on your location, the time of year, and your energy consumption needs. This way, we ensure you have enough power without overloading your roof with unnecessary panels.

IMPORTANCE OF KEEPING SOLAR PANELS CLEAN: Is it important to keep solar panels clean?

Absolutely. Dust, dirt, and debris can reduce the efficiency of your panels. A simple wash every few months with warm, soapy water will do the trick. There’s no need for harsh chemicals or special cleaners. Just be cautious if you’re climbing up on the roof—safety first!

ABOUT SMARTSHUNT SETTINGS: Why does my SmartShunt show 100% SOC when my batteries are only 70% charged, and what can I do about it?

This usually happens because the SmartShunt needs to be recalibrated. If your State of Charge (SOC) reading doesn’t match your battery levels, it’s likely a settings issue. We recommend a professional tune-up to adjust the SmartShunt settings properly. Book an appointment with us in Hamilton, and we can sort it for you. Accurate readings make all the difference when managing your power system.

SOLAR PANEL OUTPUT: How can I tell what size my solar panel is?

Q: How do I know what size my solar panel is, or how much power it’s producing?

A: Most panels have a label underneath showing the wattage, voltage, and current. This is essentially what the panel can produce in ideal conditions. If it’s hard to see, a good trick is to slide your phone under the panel and take a photo or video of the label.

If there’s no label or it’s unreadable, we can usually make a fair estimate just by looking at the size and type of panel. Always happy to help if you’re unsure.

CHARGING SYSTEMS AND TIMERS: How long should we run a charger with a timer to protect the batteries?

If your charger doesn’t have a built-in storage mode, you can mimic that by using a simple timer. Set it to run 12 hours on, 12 hours off. That way, the batteries get charged for half the day and rest for the other half, similar to how they’d behave with solar charging. It’s a straightforward way to look after your batteries without needing a fancy charger.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT FRIDGE FOR YOUR MOTORHOME: Is a three-way (gas, mains, battery) or compressor fridge better for motorhomes?

It depends on your setup, but I tend to favour compressor fridges if you’ve got enough room on the roof for the solar panels needed to power them.

Compressor fridges are generally more efficient and have lower energy consumption.

That said, modern three-way fridges are still quite good and can keep your food and drinks cold without issue. It’s really about balancing your available solar capacity with your energy needs.

CHARGING E-BIKE BATTERIES: How can we charge e-bike batteries without a powered site or inverter?

Charging e-bike batteries off-grid is a common challenge. One solution is to install an inverter in your motorhome to provide the 230V AC needed for the e-bike charger. You’ll likely need to increase your battery capacity and add more solar panels to handle the extra load.

Also, take advantage of charging while you’re driving, as the alternator can help supply power without draining your house batteries. Remember, it’s better for the e-bike batteries to charge them regularly rather than letting them run completely flat.

PANEL COMPATIBILITY AND CONFIGURATION: Can different-sized panels be connected together?

Technically, yes, but there are some caveats. The panels need to have compatible voltage and current characteristics. If you connect mismatched panels incorrectly, you might not get the full potential out of them, and the system could be less efficient. Sometimes it’s better to use separate solar controllers for different panels or to configure them in series or parallel carefully. It’s a bit complex, so it’s best to consult with someone who knows the ins and outs of solar panel configurations.

VOLTAGE CONSIDERATIONS FOR SOLAR SYSTEMS: Is there an advantage to going from 12V to 24V systems?

There can be. Moving to a 24V system is beneficial if you’re running large inverter loads, like heavy-duty appliances, because it allows for smaller cables and can be more efficient. However, most RV appliances are designed for 12V, so you’d need voltage reducers to run them on a 24V system, which adds complexity and cost. It’s a trade-off, and whether it’s worth it depends on your specific energy needs and setup.